Is it worthwhile repairing old components?

One of the fundamental problems in restoring old bikes is trying to source the period correct components to go on your frame. As the years slip by with ever increasing speed, the availability of the components you seek, seems to diminish. Occasionally, you may find the part you are looking for may turn up, but damaged. I have a frame belonging to a clubmate, that I know from over forty years ago. It lay rusting in the clubroom, having been used as a complete bike for riding rollers. Sweat had taken it’s toll on the paintwork, the frame had been stripped of all of it’s original components, but I had the frame refinished in original colour with original pattern transfers/decals reinstated. The restoration became moribund, because of the difficulty in trying to source period correct parts. It is my intention to build the bike up with parts sold by the late Ron Kitchin. The original owner was a big user of parts from ‘Everything Cycling’.

I had a large flange Normandy front hub from the 1950s/1960s, with the round holes in flanges, but I only had a damaged suitable rear hub. The flange was bent inwards from having the chain derail off the largest sprocket and wedging between the freewheel block and the flange. The flange was also heavily pitted from the incident. I have searched in vain for more than five years to find a better example without success. The one thing in favour of the damaged example, was the bearing cups in the hub are perfect. I asked a friend back in 2019 if he could repair the hub. The reply came back in the affirmative.

Now in fairness, it has taken a while, but my friend had just moved house and has been fully occupied renovating the property, back into a home for him and his family, in addition to all the other work, he has had on his plate. A recent visit, resulted in him showing me the tooling he had made to repair the hub. My friend explained that he had mulled over the problem of repair, analysing how best to tackle the repair, resulting in the best chance of success. Any way, I called with him a few weeks later and was presented with the repaired hub. The damaged right hand flange has been straightened, and the damage aluminium has been welded and ground back. Although some evidence of the repair is visible, it will not be visible, once the hub has been built into a wheel and a freewheel block fitted. Importantly the repair will not be visible from the usual viewing position at the back of the flange. One caveat. I don’t know how durable this repair would be for everyday, frequent use. However, for use on a vintage bike, probably doing no more than thirty miles on a vintage run, it should be more than adequate. The satisfaction is that this had made a damaged part useable once more, as well as a problem overcome in the journey to putting an old frame back on the road.

Cleaning alloy cycle components

I was doing some internet searching in relation to a bike I had to work on for the Springhill Cycle Collection. The bike, an early 1970s model, had been stored in less than ideal conditions and the alloy components were showing signs of surface corrosion - not been cleaned before it was stored. The components were a Spanish copy of Campagnolo and in parody of the great Roman cycling god, the copies were named after the ruler of the Greek Olympian gods, Zeus. Frank Berto in his tome 'The Dancing Chain' doesn't rate Zeus components. Zeus components were never very common in this part of 'the oul sod', so to get a bike equipped with Zeus is unusual. The bike is local, has been ridden and used judging by the layers of dirt and wear to the parts. Anyway to return to the point, the large flange hubs are not Zeus and turned out to be of Japanese origin. I haven't seen photos of this particular model of hub on the web.

However, here at Methuselah Towers I have a confession to make. I haven't bought a news stand cycle magazine in 10 years and don't frequent internet forums, so therefore cannot claim any kind of expertise other than experience. So I have to defer to the 'experts' on the web, who advocate using various grades of abrasive papers and buffing wheels to polish alloy components. Personally I would have grave reservations about such an aggressive approach, as I have experience of alloy components such as Campagnolo and Stronglight cracking and failing. I also don't agree with re-polishing old alloy to a very high surface shine, far removed from the original finish. To me it detracts from the originality of the parts/machine and can, in my humble opinion, be a case of 'over egging the pudding'.

I prefer a more subtle approach, one advocated by a long forgotten source. I was told to use a brass brush to clean alloy and then wipe the surface with oil. I now prefer to use WD40 or an equivalent solvent, on a soft cloth or a bit of kitchen roll, to wipe the burnished alloy. The brush will get rid of the surface bloom and expose the nature and extent of any surface pitting and corrosion. A decision can then be made about re-polishing if deemed necessary. It is surprising how much the brass brush will clean up the alloy, whilst still leaving a sympathetic finish to the metal. Where the corrosion is not too deep it can be polished out after cleaning, using Autosol and a soft cloth. A final clean with a silicone based car polish will give it the final seal as you have in all likelihood removed the original anodised finish. I have tried to show a few before and after photos to illustrate the point. The Maillard small flange hubs are ones I rescued from the scrap bin of a cycle business. 

Remember that you will need to keep an eye on your repolished alloy as it will now be more susceptible to corrosion as the anodised coating has been removed!

1952 Rudge Ulster Tourist

I spotted this bike for sale on the web locally. The machine appeared complete and original from the photos. I watched it for a few days before deciding to check if it was still for sale, before arranging a viewing of the bike. A quick phone call to the seller and the bike was still unsold. A leisurely drive in the autumn sunshine to view the bike and the deal was done. The bike was loaded into the back of the car and returned home with me. I have hankered after one of these Rudge 'Ulster' models for quite a while because of the association with this particular province of Ireland. Unfortunately the machine is too small for me, but I had a new owner in mind anyway. 

This machine is a 1952 Rudge Ulster Tourist Gent's roadster bicycle with a 21” frame, complete with tired original paint and transfers. 

It is fitted with an alloy Sturmey Archer FW 4 speed hub and 26 x 1 3/8” (650A) wheels.

The machine dates from when Raleigh owned Rudge and the headbadge still fitted on the head tube and the Raleigh 23-28 High Tensile steel tubing transfer confirms this.

According to the only 1950s Rudge catalogue on line in the V-CC library (1959), this particular machine was model 129. It had an entirely brazed frame with a brazed on pulley boss on the Gent's model only. 

The 1959 model had celluloid mudguards, but the 1952 has Raleigh pattern metal ones. 

The 1959 price for Rudge Ulster Tourist was £20. 4/-. 4d. with a further £2. 16/-. 4d payable for a Sturmey Archer dynohub . The frame was also Spra-Bonderized rust proofed. The paint finish was very similar with similar specification contrasting head panel colours and frame box lining This process was well regarded by cyclists of the time and in later years as one of the best available rust inhibiting processes. A lot of the artisan framebuilders such as Holdsworth and Bob Jackson used the process on their frames. The 1959 Rudge catalogue lists this model as having a Brooks leather saddle, however, the catalogue illustration shows the machine with a sprung type mattress saddle which the 1952 model has. The same image was obviously used in the catalogue for a number of years, despite the machine specification changing.

The chainring on the 1952 model incorporates the 'Red Hand of Ulster'. The machine is still very original down to the perished 'John Bull' tyre. The frame angles are more relaxed and the fork rake is much bigger than modern machines, but then many byways and minor roads were still to see tar in the early 1950s, It is a quality machine as evidenced by the more expensive alloy Sturmey Archer hub gear. The bicycle will need a complete strip down and new grease in all the bearings. Both of the original Dunlop pattern Endrick steel rims have acquired flats and from an assessment of the damage the rims will need replacement. Other than that, a good service and clean, this old Rudge should be ready for the road. Even the overhaul and service of the Sturmey Archer FW hub should present none of the problems associated with the FM or FC hubs. I hope the new owner is delighted with it. I'm looking forward to seeing it out on the road next year.

Idéale Saddles

Idéale saddles were a brand of leather saddles made by Tron et Berthet from Pont Saint Pierre, Eure Department, Haute-Normandie, France. Tron et Berthet sourced their leather from two suppliers in France, one in the north of the country and one in the south. The leather for the best saddles had to be a certain thickness, too thin and the saddle top would stretch and sag, too thick and the leather fibres would break as the top was formed causing failure of the saddle. Even when cutting up the hide, knowledge was needed as to which parts of the hide were to be used for the best saddles, the rest of the hide being used for children's saddles. Jean-François Tron had started his Idéale saddle production in the 1890s in Paris and moved to Pont Saint Pierre in 1900. Marcel Berthet married Jeanne Tron. Jean-François Tron died in 1931 and control of the company passed to Jeanne Berthet and her brother Jean Tron. Jean Tron remained with the company until the 1970s when his nephew Pierre Berthet became it's director. Pierre Berthet was the grandson of Jean-François Tron.  Idéale had an association with the Dunlop Company of Fort Dunlop, Birmingham before the outbreak of the Second World War. Tron and Berthet had sourced some of their machinery from England, which would later cause problems, as it was calibrated in imperial dimensions (inches) and of course, France was metric, which required time consuming conversion.

Changing patterns in agriculture after the Second World War were to have an impact on Idéale, as cattle breeds changed to facilitate greater food production. The newer breeds did not produce the type of leather Idéale required and made sourcing the required leather much more difficult and expensive for the company. The changing fashion, within cycling, from the 1960s onwards, for Italian plastic saddles like Unica-Nitor, would also have long term impact. As the fashion amongst cyclists changed from a purely leather saddle, in favour of leather covered padded saddles over a plastic base, (Cinelli, Concor, Milremo, Rolls) meant in reality, many cyclists were not prepared to invest time and discomfort in breaking in a leather saddle to achieve a comfortable seat. So Idéale's market share for bicycle saddles began to decline, as their top of the range saddles were leather, in addition to the other difficulties.  Idéale also had VAR Tools produce a saddle adjustment spanner which would fit both Idéale and Brooks.   

Unlike the English made Brooks saddles, Idéale leather saddles were waterproof, so didn't absorb rain water and sag if they got wet.  Idéale  had developed their own secret process which allowed the leather to be waterproofed in the saddle manufacturing process.  Idéale also experimented with different materials for their saddle frames. Initially they used steel, which on some models was chrome plated. Chrome plating became harder to have done towards the end of production, as changing health and safety regulations forced many platers to close.  Tron et Berthet also experimented with alloy and produced saddles (Model 90R Competition) with an alloy frame. Towards the end of production in the 1970s Idéale made saddles with Titanium frames and seatposts. Special saddles were produced on occasion, an example of which I saw with the leather top drilled full of holes for lightness much like the fashion for drilled components used by time trialists in the 1970s. 

Idéale did produce a copy of the Brooks B17 saddle (Model 80 Record)) which sold well. They also developed the Daniel Rebour branded Model 92 'Diagonale' and Model 88 Competition.

The Berthet family sold the business to another company which wanted to modernise the business and mass produce the leather saddles. In reality, the new owners had little appreciation that the leather had to be hand worked. Their attempts at mechanisation failed and the company went bust approximately six months after the new owners took over. A sad end for an iconic brand. Idéale saddles are well regarded by collectors and were the saddle of choice of many French 'constructeurs'.  Idéale saddles in good condition are now beginning to command high prices on French ebay.

Idéale saddles was one of the lines that Ron Kitching imported and sold from his Harrogate cycle parts business. They were considered expensive by many in the 1970s and I don't have any recollection of any local clubmen from that time using an Idéale saddle in this part of Ireland.

Visit to Scottish Cycle Museum, Drumlanrig Castle

I posted earlier on 11^th July about a track bike which I saw at the Scottish Cycle Museum in the Stableyard at Drumlanrig Castle. I spent a few enjoyable hours looking at the bikes. I have to confess that I have no real interest in early machines such as Hobbyhorses or Ordinaries. I accept that some people do have an interest and I acknowledge that without them, we wouldn't have the machines we use today. I suppose my interest in bicycles and cycling was shaped by the people I knew growing up, some of whom who had cycled from the first decade of the 20^th century. I was more interested in hearing how the custom built lightweight bicycle had developed following the Great War. 

This was the machine that I could relate to, from my own experience of cycling. It was interesting, as a teenager, hearing tales of marques of machines and how folk cycled in the 1920s and 1930s. 

Having grown up in a cycling family, I was well versed in my parents experience of cycling after WW2. So my interest in cycling only goes back around 90 years.

I was very interested to see the examples of bicycles made by some of the Scottish framebuilders. Flying Scot are well known, but there were others builders, not only in Glasgow, but outside the central corridor.

I was particularly interested in the bottom bracket detail on the Lindsay of Dundee Scottish made bike, as the same detail was also found on some of the Leach Marathon frames, built by Bill Leach, a London builder. 

I really enjoyed the display of Scottish made machines and I would loved to have tried one or two, just to see how they rode. 

Another bicycle which caught my eye was a pre WW2 Granby. I was able to see it had the frame number stamped into the underside of the fork crown and had the Granby designed rear dropouts. 

More recent developments weren't ignored and there were two cast magnesium Kirk Precision frames there, a complete road bike and the MTB version – frame only. 

Mark Beaumont's Koga Miyata bike that he rode around the world to break the record on was also on display. 

If you are ever in or near Thornhill, the cycle museum at Drumlanrig Castle is well worth a visit.

Musings on multi-speed freewheels

One of the mechanical features of running older derailleur equipped lightweight bicycles (in the British sense, hand crafted from a lightweight tubeset such as Accles & Pollock or Reynolds) is multi-speed freewheels. Late 1940s or early 1950s machines were often equipped with a four speed block, which quickly changed to a 5 speed block during the 1950s. Derailleur gearing was favoured more by proponents of mass start road racing and some members of the Cyclist's Touring Club up until the late 1950s, as many UK clubmen still rode fixed gear. These older derailleur systems usually ran with 'half step' gearing if a double chainring was fitted. 'Half step' usually meant between 4 to 8 teeth difference between the outer and inner chainrings. The small difference was caused by two factors, first, the limited capacity of the front mech, which was often rod operated, e.g Simplex or Cyclo-Benelux and secondly, the limited capacity of the rear mech in handling the larger tooth difference. There have been various freewheel manufacturers over the years from the 1930s. The days of buying the appropriate sizes of sprockets from your local bike shop, to build up a custom multi-speed freewheel for the gearing you required, has long since passed. The modern offerings by Shimano, Sunrace or Falcon are sold with set sprocket sizes, i.e. 14~24T, or 14~28T and are available as either 5, 6, 7, or 8 multi-speed freewheel blocks. What is very noticeable is that the durability of the freewheel bodies has declined markedly from former years. (It is possible to recondition some freewheels which are over well over 40 years old for further use on a restoration project). Having examined the 5, 6, and 7 speed Chinese made Shimano offerings, the sprocket sizes were as per the table:-

Size	Range	Sprockets
5 speed	14~24T	14, 17, 19, 21, 24
5 speed	14~28T	14, 17, 20, 24, 28
6 speed	14~24T	14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24
6 speed	14~28T	14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28
7 speed	14~28T	14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 28

One of the problems (or joys?) with older derailleur mechs alluded to above, is the capacity of the mechs, ie the difference in teeth it can handle between the rear sprockets, in combination with the difference in chainring size. Some older rear mechs would not have the capacity to handle the teeth difference on a 14~28T block. I had been pondering this for a while and after studying the Shimano offerings, wondered if the sprockets were all the same fitting? If this proved to be the case, it would, in theory, be possible to cannabalize several freewheels of different sizes to produce freewheel blocks of a smaller tooth range, ie 14~22T in both 5 and 6 speeds. This idea appealed to me, as these freewheels were readily available for free from local skips or from dumped bikes. 

The first job was to source some sample blocks for stripping down. Six speed blocks seemed to be the most common found locally. All the multi-speed freewheels I selected were clearly marked Shimano – China, however, I quickly noticed there was a difference in the style of sprockets between the 5 speed blocks and the 6 speed versions. The difference would only really become clear once the blocks were dis-assembled. 

The dis-assembly sequence requires that the freewheel is firmly held, so the outer threaded sprocket can be removed. 

Once the threaded sprocket has been taken off, the splined sprockets and plastic spacers have to be removed.

This should then leave the bare freewheel body, which is stepped for two sizes of splined sprockets.

This particular 6 speed donor freewheel was seized, so the next stage was to dismantle the freewheel body.  The first step was to unscrew the outer faceplate.

The 1/8 inch ball bearings can be seen in the top bearing cup along with dirt and corrosion.  The next stage is to separate the assembly for cleaning over a suitable container to stop the ball bearings cascading onto the floor.  Note there are shim washers under the faceplate.

This is useful as removal of one or a combination of these may allow the faceplate to be tightened to remove some or most of the excess play in worn bearings.  Now the dirty job to start cleaning.  I usually polish the bearing cups in the freewheel body before re-assembly.

The cleaned main freewheel body components are now ready for new grease and ball bearings.

To return to the subject of the sprockets.  I quickly discovered that the sprockets are not the same on Shimano 5 and 6 speed freewheels.  The 5 speed sprockets are splined but do not have a dedicated key unlike the 6 speed sprockets.  The key is marked like the sprockets used on Shimano cassettes.

In all cases the sprockets will only fit on the freewheel body the correct way, so there is no chance of getting it wrong.  I think this probably has more to do with using unskilled labour in the assembly plant, rather than a deliberate contrivance aimed at preventing the less experienced cycle mechanic from getting it wrong.

The upshot of all this tinkering, is that the idea, although good, is in this case, sadly impractical.  It does prove however that the working life of these cheap and at the moment, readily available freewheels can be extended by a suitable service or rebuild if the owner wishes.