One of the
most frequent postings on web forums by people who are starting to
collect bikes is 'can anyone identify my bike or frame?' The easiest
route to possible identification is find the frame number. It sounds
simple enough, but it is made a lot easier if you know where to look.
Volume bicycle manufacturers like Raleigh tended to use the seat lug,
as in this 1925 Raleigh roadster.
The size and
font of the numbering could also change over time as illustrated in
the Raleigh Moulton frame number, although the location of the frame
number was the same.
One caveat
about Raleigh frame number information on the web. Sheldon Brown is
quite accurate on Raleigh frame numbering, except where he supposes
about Irish Raleigh production. His information is simply
incorrect. As it was posted 'on the internet', it is assumed by
many, as an incontrovertible truth, when it is not. Sheldon's pages
were a work in progress. Unfortunately, this all came to a halt, on
his untimely passing. I will blog accurate information on Dublin
Raleigh frame numbers using known examples at a future date. Raleigh have also used the back of the seat tube, either below the seat lug, or above the bottom bracket, the underside of the bottom bracket shell and rear dropout as location of frame number. Some of these locations were used for 'badge engineered' Raleigh production. As mentioned
above, the style of font used in the sequential frame number changed
over time and the example below was found on a 1920s British
roadster.
Other British bicycle manufacturers used either the seat
lug or a rear dropout. BSA sports frames tended to have the frame
number on the left rear dropout.
Hercules in the 1950s also used the
left rear dropout and used a different font to BSA.
Sunbeam
during it's time of ownership by AMC used the right hand rear dropout
on some models.
Bespoke
custom frame builders in Britain used various locations to install a
frame number. Unusually, some builders put their frame numbers on the
bottom bracket shell at the down tube lug.
Others stamped the
underside of the fork crown. It was not unknown to have the frame
number on both the frame and fork.
Often the frame number was
stamped on the fork steerer tube as well.
However, easily the most
common location for a frame number was the underside of the bottom
bracket shell.
The number was usually stamped in line with the axle,
or at right angles to the crank axle and parallel to one on the
bottom bracket cups. Imported
Peugeot bikes from the late 1970s/early 1980s had a frame number
stamped into the bottom bracket shell which was parallel to one of
the bottom bracket cups. Peugeot also had a paper identifier covered
in clear vinyl wich identifies the model, frame size and sequential
frame number.
The location
varied between the underside of the bottom bracket, bottom of the
seat tube above the bottom bracket shell, or on the left hand
chainstay.
The model numbers appear to be slightly different
according to the country of sale. Gitane put their frame number on
the left rear dropout of their tandems. The sequential frame number
is on the bottom part of the dropout and the year identifier above.
A further
complication and a bit of a red herring can be a re-finisher's number.
Frames were often stamped by a re-finisher before being enamelled
to make sure the right frame and fork were returned. These are
usually 3 digit numbers and can confuse as they are on both frame
and fork.
Once you
have located the frame number, the process of trying to indentify the machine that you have found can begin. Finding the frame
number can be difficult if it is only lightly stamped, or been damaged
on a rear droput, or covered up with paint. Some small bespoke frame
builders didn't bother with a frame number. Late 1980s volume manufacturer (Londonderry
built) Viking 531 frames also don't appear to have been given frame
numbers. I have also found 1990s examples of Dawes 531 frames with
the same problem. Finally, another recent phenomenon which can add to
the confusion is post code stamping of a bike frame to try to deter
theft and ensure the frame is returnable to it's owner. These are
usually 7 digits, usually two letters, three numbers and two letters.
They tend to be stamped where they can be easily found, so keep
looking to see if there are any others!
Great post! I just recently purchased a sunbeam that has the frame number on the rear right drop out. As your blog indicates this means it may be from the AMC era of ownership and I was just wondering where you found this information. I am having trouble aging my bike between either the AMC era or immediately post-war. Maybe we could discuss through email so I could send you some photos? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteJohannes if you want to know more about the Sunbeam marque, get hold of the late John Pinkerton and Derek Roberts 'Sunbeam Cycles - The Story from Catalogues Volumes 1 & 2. It is still available from the Veteran - Cycle Club, but you will have to join to access their book sales. Membership will also allow you to access the Sunbeam Marque Enthusiast who will be able to answer your queries.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.v-cc.org.uk/
Yeah I have contemplated that but cannot really afford to drop $60 to join the club and then another $30 to buy the book. I think the V-CC is great I just cant justify the money to join. Maybe one day.
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